It is no secret that chain and independent restaurants are rivals. But does being well-known equate to being the best? Or does being free-standing actually result in tastier, fresher food? Here at Back of House, we thought we would test it out. As us brits are mad on curry - it has been voted the UK’s favourite dish numerous times and we have a national curry week - we picked Indian as our cuisine of choice.For the restaurants, we chose the much-loved chain restaurant Dishoom in Covent Garden and Willesden Green’s hidden, independent gem, Vijay.The criteria were; cleanliness, starters, mains, desserts, service, ambience, drinks and décor.
Dishoom - paying homage to Irani cafés in Bombay
Starters: Kate Kulniece
As a student from Eastern Europe, I like to keep things simple. . . and cheap. Very cheap. Drilled into my head by my father, this mentality never leaves me and becomes somewhat intimidating when going out for dinner. My stomach and taste buds might disagree but, my bank account will be thankful. . .and so will my dad.
As soon as I enter Dishoom and have a look at their vegan menu, the cheapskate psyche vanishes from the radar of my conscience.
Bhel puri… deriving 4,500 miles away from its origins in Mumbai, this small nibble can be bought from street vendors across India for 35 rupees (approximately 40p); 10 times cheaper than here in London.
Puffed rice with green chillies, mixed Bombay bhel (a savoury Indian snack), coriander, pomegranate, diced onions and tomato. It does sound tempting, and I am starving. Without a long ceremony of deliberation, I give in.
Within minutes, it is served and I dig in.
One by one, bursts of, ʻʻOh my God!’’s and ʻʻAhh, this is so good!’’s leave my mouth as I pass it around. ʻʻGuys, you HAVE to try this!’’
Bhel puri – it is everything one could ask for in a snack. Crunchy, refreshing, savoury yet zesty and with a tinge of spiciness. The original recipe – I know this from my Indian host family – does not call for pomegranate; but the juicy seeds add the final oomph to the dish.
My wallet and dad might not be happy. But I am.
Mains: Tooba Haq
Being the only Southeast Asian in the Back of House team, there were high expectations for Dishoom. Rumoured to be the only Indian restaurant in London that gets their spices right, I drooled over their selection of household favourites. My main, the black daal- a lentil dish that is a staple in most households. Predominantly known as a poor man's dish, Dishoom elevates it to restaurant quality.
The lentils are perfectly cooked and soft, like a richer, creamier version of my mother’s
cooking. Infused with the flavour of cloves, garlic, seasonings, chilli and cream for 24 hours before they serve it, my first bite into the bowl proves that Dishoom know their lentils.
I cannot go to an Indian restaurant without ordering the chicken tikka. Chicken cubes, cooked on skewers over a hot grill, brushed with oil, spices and seasoning. As I bite into it, the first thing that hits me is the spice. Finally! Giving a twist to traditional food, they have swapped out the yogurt soaked tikka for one that is marinated with sweet vinegar. Along with traditional asian spices, the chicken transports me back to the streets of Pakistan, having a BBQ in the cool, winter breeze.
The chicken is succulent and juicy- the outside has a good char. I finish my dinner and unbuckle my belt for dessert, even though breathing seems like a chore. Foodies will be happy to find that although they are in Central London, just for a brief moment, they are transported to the heart of Mumbai.
Drinks: Claudia Jackson
Entering Dishoom, I knew little about Indian cocktails, was there such a thing? Well, yes there is and they are just as enticing as you might think. If you are not brave or bold enough to try one of the more traditional Indian drinks like the smoky Chaijito or the Kala Khatta Sharbat with black salt; there are plenty of classic cocktails too, like the Dry Old Fashioned and the Classic Martini.
I started off somewhere in between classic cocktail and traditional Indian and with a cocktail with a Colaba Colada. – The perfect introduction to Dishoom. Sweet and creamy pineapple and coconut, lime juice and dark rum with a dash of chai syrup and coriander, that’s the Bombay twist. This cocktail is one for those with a sweet tooth. The presentation is not too garish either, as classic Piña Coladas often are. Just a tall glass with coconut shavings for garnish.
A nonalcoholic favorite was Thumbs Up, the brand launched in 1977 after Coca-Cola abandoned operations in India. Although Coca-Cola has since returned to India, Thumbs Up remains a firm favorite, and it is clear why. Sweeter than Coca-Cola but not sickly – a hard balance to get right, and a good bet if you are designated driver.
If you are watching your wallet, go with a large group of friends and each get a different drink and all share, that is the best way to get a full taste for the variety Dishoom has to offer. And if you are not watching the wallet, the drinks are on you.
Desserts: Tristan Prawl
Post stuffing our faces, and with little room left for dessert, we opt for something light that we can all share. At both the recommendation of our waiter and out of sheer curiosity we order Kala Khatta Gola Ice (a vegan option I might add). The dessert is described even on the menu as “bizarre” and “captivating” with ingredients described as - “fluffy ice flakes steeped in kokum fruit syrup, blueberries, chilli, lime, white and black salt.” Kokum being a sweet and sour fruit indigenous to India and black salt a pungent-smelling rock salt commonly used in South Asia on things such as fruit to add a more dynamic flavour.
One by one, we dig in with a spoon. Each of us display the same expressions in the following order: distaste, acceptance, and finally appreciation. Discussing the initial flavour we threw around the words metallic and, dare I say, blood-like. But, as bizarre as it is, we all go back for a second, third, and even fourth spoonful. Calling the flavours of the spicy chili, sweet and sour kokum syrup, and black salt a dynamic combination would be an understatement. But, where one might think that a “metallic” tasting dessert would leave such an aftertaste - it does not. Instead, it leaves me with a lingering light sweet taste, prompting me to take those few extra bites. Similar to that ex-boyfriend you definitely should not get back with, this dessert has you remembering all of the good and none of the bad.
Writing this now, I cannot say if I like it or not. However, I can say that it is a challenge my palate has never faced and has left me feeling above all refreshed.
Ambience and cleanliness: Dorota Ciolek
If you visit Dishoom’s Carnaby branch, you will realise that this spot does not look like one of those Indian restaurants you have been before. Dishoom is modern, vibrant and cool. It is a perfect place to tuck into a delicious, authentic Indian meal- and there’s more than a good curry on the menu. The service is very friendly and helpful. I am not a connoisseur of Indian food so the waiter helps me choose my meal and suggests which cocktail tastes the best. He smiles and clears the dishes, small and big plates, bowls and cups, at once with no difficulty. “It is just about the balance,” he says when I ask him if it is not too much to carry.
The restaurant looks smart, neat and organised. The tables are cleaned immediately after every meal. You can see that the crew and managers put a lot of effort into straightening up after closing time.
My seat is close to the bar, giving me an inviting view of the bartenders making cocktails. They all look stylish and classy, dressed in white shirts and dicky bows. Unfortunately, they are the only ones wearing uniform. Waiters and managers are dressed in normal clothes, making it sometimes difficult to distinguish between the staff and the guests. Everything is fresh and sparkling. What I really like are the energetic vibes- the staff, hastily bringing food and serving guests, and the music, loud enough to hear but still low enough to have a chat.
Decor and Service: Milica Cosic
Ever since my first visit about a month ago, I have been dreaming about the Ruby Curry, the Naan Bread and beautiful, authentic Indian décor. And, the longtime has come to an end. Finally.
Walking into the restaurant, we are mentally prepared for the typical Thursday night; a long after-work-wait, the loud ‘we will have to talk over each other’ meal and the usual bad, dismissive service of a busy chain.
However, we are more than pleasantly surprised -although, the good service starts only once we are seated.
The restaurant is packed, yet somehow we still manage to squeeze right in front of the bar. A quick look at the menu. Bombay Colada and G&T sounds like a good start for a good evening; we are ready to order.
We have been patiently standing at the bar for 20 minutes, but neither of the three bartenders seem to have noticed us. After a while, our drinks are finally served.
That drinks in London are expensive is not a shocking revelation. But this. . . this is overpriced! At £11.50, I would expect the G&T to be served in a fancy looking glass, carved in the back of house by Gandhi himself. But I do have to say that the décor of the bar is mesmerising. The bar is dimly lit. The back shelf lighting illuminating the drink bottles adds some intimacy.
After nearly having a heart attack price-wise, I am definitely not considering purchasing another drink and, just my luck as the pager buzzes away. Eager to sit down after an hours’ wait, a waitress comes to take us to our seats. Surprisingly, she takes our drinks- placing them on a tray- and we all followed her like starving penguins. Perhaps the service is why the drinks are so expensive.
Seating us underneath the picture of a very strange, unknown man- the waitress leaves, introducing us to a younger, more bubbly waiter. After the waiter confirms that the man above our heads is most likely one of the founders, he proceeds to explain us the overwhelming menu. Once we have ordered enough food for 70 people, (even though there are only six of us), we all relax in the comfy chairs. Taking in the décor which, “plays homage to the Irani cafes that were once part of the fabric of life in (formerly known) Bombay”- we are all amazed at the authentic, rustic décor. The style is truly “from Bombay with love” as, everything from the cutlery to the glasses- the bowls and tins is authentically old and homespun.
We wolf down our meals- partly due to hunger and partly due to the great recommendations the waiter made. We are left with stuffed tummies; stuffed to the point where we have to undo our belts. Finishing our dessert (there is always room for some), which was another recommendation by the friendly waiter, we pay our bill and put on our coats. Only turning, once more, to pay homage to the strange, nameless man above our heads- we leave feeling the love from Bombay; both in our stomachs and in our minds.
VIJAYS - homemade delicious indian food
Starters: Jessica Kwan
Served piping hot with a fresh side of coconut chutney, the Masala Dosai is the delectable starter to our authentic South Indian cuisine. The crispy pancake is cooked until golden-brown, and divided into five individual servings for our convenience. The thin crepe-like texture is easy to cut and feels light on the tongue, perforating to reveal a distinctive filling of spiced potatoes that are buttery and smooth.
The potatoes are mashed to perfection, with a melt in the mouth texture that is rich and velvety. As an adamant hater of anything hot or chilli in the slightest, I am apprehensive for the spicy flavour that the starter will bring. However, the aroma is surprisingly manageable, and delivers a true taste of India. The hot temperature of the dish is comforting for our mouths that are numb from the outdoor cold, while the coconut chutney creates a cool and refreshing zest that whistles down our tongues. Despite having never visited India before, within one mouthful of the starter I almost believe I am eating authentic food straight off the streets of Kerala.
Delivering even more flavour from the fried onions, which are also part of the pancake filling, would be one suggestion for improvement. I would definitely recommend the Masala Dosai to anyone who visits Vijay; I guarantee you will not be disappointed.
Mains: Etienne Fermie
So having wolfed down my Masala Dosai, I am on to the main - a vegetable korma in plain rice.
Commonly known as the mildest curry money can buy, a korma order is often mocked by people wanting a more hardcore hot dish - but it should not be.
Although often spiced with cardamom seeds, cumin, turmeric and chilli powder, it is true that korma isn’t a challenge on the tongue; but if I had wanted that, I would be at a chilli eating contest, not sat at the UK’s oldest South Indian restaurant.
Vijay, located in Kilburn, north-west London, was opened in 1964, a trailblazer for what would become arguably the UK’s favourite dining experience.
So as my vegetable korma arrives, I have got high hopes.
With a sauce that is known for being curated out of cream and yoghurt, going for the vegetable variation certainly offers an interesting juxtaposition of textures.
With the crunch of the carrots blending with the creaminess of the korma sauce, immediately I felt onto a winner. Add in garlic and onions for extra sharpness of flavour to mix with the creamy mild spice of the korma sauce and suddenly I am very interested.
When the waiter came round I had panicked and ordered chapati, a happy accident however, as the thin flatbread pleasingly gives me yet another texture to add to the cream and the crunch.
I have always felt that Korma is an underrated Indian dish and tonight’s trip to Vijay has only reaffirmed this mildly guilty pleasure.
Drinks: Harry Bourner
From the outside, it would not appear that this particular restaurant would serve a good pint. It is tucked away along a little backstreet in Kilburn and the bar looks a tad dusty. I am sceptical as I sit down and wonder whether to even give the beer a go or just play it safe, but knowing that the likes of Diana Ross and Harrison Ford had once attended this restaurant I decide to throw caution to the wind. I also go for a bit of a fiery curry and hope that the hoppy addition will maximise my experience at the first South Indian restaurant in the UK.
The drinks menu is extensive and I am very pleased to find that they have Cobra on draught at £4.00 which seems reasonable in a city where unless you are in a Spoons, you should be prepared to pay £5.00 a pint. There is no doubt in my mind that Cobra is the perfect beer for Indian food, or any food due to its reduced amount of bubbles. This means it has an extra smooth, silky taste which is the perfect compliment to the flavours that my Rogan Josh offers.
The other guys go for Diet Cokes and there seems to be no complaints with those and at £2.00 for a large glass, it seems like a steal.
Overall I am impressed with the quality of the beverages on offer, just a little word of warning: go easy on the Cobra’s as they do not half go down nicely.
Desserts: Melina Zachariou
I am sad to say that we could not find a dessert menu as we sat and covered the food on offer. One we had finished our mains, stuffed from the fabulous food, we think about whether we should ask for a dessert menu but then I realise something. The masala Dosai we had eaten for our starter is actually an indian pancake and actually, pancakes cover dessert in my books. We are also offered a piece of sweet naan free of charge to end our meal and some sweets with the bill tray.
Ambience/ Decor: Asya Gadzheva
London’s Vijay India Restaurant is the first South Indian restaurant to open in England. Established in 1964, it has since been delivering authentically delicious South Indian home cooking in a cosy and characteristically homey environment.
The warm and predisposing dining space, discreetly lit by soft beige lighting, is adorned with religious and captivatingly exotic paintings and images. There is a consuming sense of hospitality as you get settled, as if there is an Indian mother at the back cooking just for you. Chefs with over 25 years of experience cater for a menu, which seems almost deceptively old-fashioned in its familiarity. At Vijay, you come for quality and tradition.
Waiting for your Indian feast, you might as well be sitting in somebody’s dining room. The atmosphere is persistent and warm-hearted. Lotus-shaped lamps and wooden panels, adding to a certain mysticism and subtle cultural inclusion; encircle the room with the sense of security and comfort typical for a family home or a sanctuary. And it is, in many if not all respects, a sanctuary of good, traditional and mouth-watering South Indian food.
There is something about Vijay that leaves you spoilt for choice. You are somehow drawn to the blissful and deliciously spicy domesticity and the exciting and unknown smells approaching you with anticipation. Add a variety of dishes, which, even in their own right, prove that there is and will always be a place for unaltered, authentic and genuine traditional cuisine amid London’s cramped and noisy food scene.
Cleanliness and service: Melina Zachariou
There is no doubt that cleanliness is important in any restaurant, independent or not. Upon taking my seat, I can see that the tables have been cleaned as expected and that the cutlery is shiny and polished. Going through from starter to main, I notice a small spec of rice on my new plate. It may seem like nothing, but I am hoping that they haven’t just wiped the plate from another meal.
The toilets are always a good indicator of the pride a restaurant takes in its appearance. A note here- the loos are absolutely freezing but that may be due to the fact that they were underground. It is a little unnerving being so close to what sounds like the kitchen or maybe a pantry. Hard to tell. The toilets are clean. I can see a healthy supply of toilet paper, hand-wash is topped up and I notice cleaning products in the corner that suggest the place is regularly cleaned. I can not see a cleaning rota that normally hangs on the door but that isn’t the most important thing in the world.
The service throughout the night is very, very attentive. We are welcomed at the door, lead to our table and have two waiters throughout the night, one of whom is a little over eager to please as he stands behind our table waiting and watching while we finish each round. A little uncomfortable at first, but we soon learn to block it out.
The end of the night passes in a little bit of confusion as we seem to have split the cost leaving way too much left to pay, but the host is very patient and lets us work out the pay without any complaints.
Conclusion for BOH
Although we are big supporters of independent restaurants at Back of House, in this Chain Vs Independent contest the chain did come out on top. Dishoom was awarded 35/40 by our critics and Vijay got 33/40. A close race but someone had to come first.
If you have a hankering for Indian cuisine in the capital, we advise you head to Carnaby Street’s Dishoom.
Dishoom may have won on this occasion, however, not every experience ends well. Our Back of House reporter Alexandra Baneva took a solo trip to our winner and had a rather interesting experience…
Words: The Back of House Team | Subbing: Etienne Fermie & Asya Gadzheva
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